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In search of the perfect goulash

Tibor Kovács wonders whether French top chef Alain Ducasse would ever open a restaurant in Budapest. His answer: Of course not. "Whenever someone wants to open a good restaurant here, the menu is French or Italian. Or in the best case, it's 'fusion cuisine', which means one can order both sushi and veal cutlet, for example. But this is at best confusing. Where are the good restaurants serving Hungarian cuisine? Why not try to rejuvenate that cuisine? Even if it lacks creativity, one could at least aim for excellent preparation of traditional dishes using excellent ingredients. Where is the perfect goulash? Evidently, the principle of 'good enough' dominates here. And if you look at the demand, people evidently accept this."

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